For steak lovers, it’s like stumbling upon a hidden treasure. You’re in a warehouse club, and there, at the far end of the meat selection, is a stash of beef labeled “USDA Prime.”Not only that: The rib-eye, for example, is selling for less than $11 a pound, only a few dollars more than the USDA Choice rib-eyes a few yards away.“The price of Prime earlier this year was lower than it had been since before the millennium,” says Lou Rook III, chef at Annie Gunn’s restaurant in Chesterfield, Mo.If you take advantage of those prices, your fancy or Sunday dinner can feature the same grade of beef that is served in high-end steakhouses and restaurants.Those restaurants used to snap up a huge portion of the Prime beef sold. But the recession has hit special-occasion and expense-account restaurants particularly hard. Revenues for Morton’s Restaurant Group, parent of Morton’s The Steakhouse, are down 17 percent this year; Ruth’s Chris steakhouses have seen comparable-restaurant sales in its most recent quarter drop 23 percent.As steakhouses buy less prime beef, more finds its way to retail shelves.The more “marbling” — the amount of fat distributed evenly among the muscle — the higher the grade from the United States Department of Agriculture. According to USDA statistics, prime accounted for just 2.9 percent of the 21 billion pounds graded in 2008. By far the largest amount, 77.6 percent, fell into the next category down, Choice; 12.9 percent received the Select grade. The small remaining amount of beef was graded Standard, Commercial, Utility or Cutter.Two of the signature steaks at Annie Gunn’s are a Prime strip steak and a Prime rib-eye. At the restaurant, Rook serves those steaks with a compound butter, but he makes them even more simply at home.“Just salt and pepper and some whole butter — there’s nothing better,” Rook says. Before seasoning the steaks at home or at the restaurant, he brushes them with extra-virgin olive oil, although he says that regular olive oil, clarified butter or even canola oil will work for the home griller.One thing that most people can’t reproduce at home is the grilling temperature — 1,800 degrees — achieved in steakhouse kitchens. But Rook grills at between 700 and 800 degrees at Annie Gunn’s and at about 600 degrees on his home gas grill.“I think that too high of a heat can char it and alter the flavor of the meat,” Rook says. “Some people like that, and the steakhouses even boast that their steaks are charred.”However, Rook says that home cooks should get their grills as hot as possible.“What you’re trying to do is caramelize the natural sugars to form that great crust,” Rook says. “That, in turn, will give the meat its optimum texture.”Sam’s Club sells Prime at some of its stores, although those stores don’t always stock it. Costco offers both Prime beef and American Kobe beef through its online ordering service and has sold them in its stores, although we couldn’t find them at a spot-check in St. Louis.

BEEF TERMINOLOGY

American KobeBeef produced in America from hybrids of the Wagyu breed — source of Japan’s Kobe beef.

Certified Angus BeefA brand name for beef from Angus cattle; can be Choice or Prime grade. Grades are based on the amount of marbling in the beef, maturity, uniformity, appearance and tenderness.

Prime, choice and selectPrime is the highest grade given by the USDA, signifying the most-marbled beef. Choice is the second-highest and Select is the lowest.

Dry-agedBeef that is hung in a refrigerated cooler for at least 10 days before being cut. The aging evaporates moisture from the muscle, concentrating the flavor and tenderizing the beef.

Wet-agedVacuum-packed in plastic and aged between 34 to 38 degrees for at least 7 days. Wet-aging is used for about 90 percent of aged beef.

Grass-fedBeef from cattle that are raised on an all-grass diet, rather than the more common practice of feeding them grain. Grass-fed beef has a milder flavor and less saturated fat.

ROASTED FINGERLING POTATOES—Yield: 6-8 servings

2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic1 teaspoon sweet paprika1 teaspoon salt1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce1/4 cup olive oil2 pounds fingerling potatoesProcedure:1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.2. In small bowl, mix together rosemary, garlic, paprika, salt and pepper. In another small bowl, whisk together Worcestershire sauce and oil.3. Spread potatoes in baking dish; drizzle with oil mixture. Sprinkle rosemary mixture evenly over potatoes and toss to coat.4. Roast 35-40 minutes, stirring several times, until potatoes are lightly browned, tender and cooked through.Source: Adapted from “Morton’s The Cookbook: 100 Steakhouse Recipes for Every Kitchen,” by Klaus Fritsch

SAUTÉED GARLIC GREEN BEANS—Yield: 4 servings

1 pound slender green beans3 tablespoons unsalted butter1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot1 tablespoon minced garlicSalt and ground white pepper, to tasteProcedure:1. Set large bowl filled with water and ice cubes near stove. In large pot partly filled with salted, boiling water, cook beans 2-3 minutes, until bright green. Drain and plunge into ice water. Drain thoroughly. (If making ahead, pat dry, cover and refrigerate up to 1 day.)2. In large sauté pan, melt butter over medium heat until bubbling. Add shallot and garlic and cook about 30 seconds, just until softened.3. Add beans, toss a few times and season with salt and pepper to taste. Sauté about 2 minutes, or until heated through. Serve immediately.

Source: Adapted from “Morton’s The Cookbook: 100 Steakhouse Recipes for Every Kitchen,” by Klaus Fritsch

CABERNET GARLIC THYME BUTTER—Yield: About 1/2 cup

1/2 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature, divided1/4 cup minced garlic1/4 cup minced shallots1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce1 cup cabernet sauvignon1/4 cup honey2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme2 tablespoons cracked black peppercornsKosher salt, to tasteProcedure:1. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in sauté pan. Sauté garlic and shallots over medium heat until translucent, 2-4 minutes.2. Stir together Worcestershire, wine and honey in medium bowl. Pour into hot pan, scraping bottom gently with spatula to loosen any cooked bits. Cook over medium heat until liquid is reduced by half. Add thyme and peppercorns and cook until liquid has almost evaporated. Let cool.3. Transfer cooked mixture to food processor or blender and add remaining 6 tablespoons butter. Blend 2-3 minutes. Add salt, to taste, and blend briefly until combined. Serve over a freshly grilled steak.

Photo by MCCLATCHY