DINING REVIEW: Sushi-licious
If you are going to steal an idea, you might as well steal from the best.So when our server at Bara Sushi, the new raw-fish den in the Promenade Shops at Briargate, told us that their treatment of yellowtail tuna sashimi ($12) was lifted straight from Nobuyuki Matsuhisa’s fleet of trendy high-end Nobu restaurants (London, New York, Dubai, Los Angeles, Aspen … you get the picture), I ordered a plate quicker than you could say Nobu Matsuhisa.The result was stunning: Tender, alabaster cuts of tuna spread out like a straight flush in a shallow, almost nonexistent pool of tart, citrusy ponzu sauce. On each slice of glistening fish perched a tiny garlic chip and an almost-tissue-thin wheel of jalapeño.Sashimi is expensive. After all, the tuna have to be caught, frozen and flown all over the world. Even then, only the most select cuts can qualify as sashimi. It represents the best fish the house has to offer. So, at first I was a little disappointed that this tiptop tuna was being served with the same pepper toppings as movie nachos. I figured the jalapeños would trample any of the tuna’s delicate, mineral flavor.I was wrong. The chile was sliced so thin that it managed to just add a quiet kick of heat at the end of a superb bite where garlic, ponzu and really excellent fish all worked together. I knew at that point that I loved Bara Sushi. Two visits and self-indulgent stacks of sushi platters later, my feeling was only confirmed. This place has the highest-quality fish, good service, and chefs who turn-out well-crafted sushi creations even when they are not stealing their recipes from Mr. Matsuhisa.The Colorado Springs Bara is a satellite of the original restaurant in Denver. The long, narrow space of the new dining room exudes a understated, modern vibe. A twin row of sleek, private booths with black- and gold-flecked stone tables divide the room. The indie rock satellite channel floats in the air above the hip halogen chandeliers. The scene is more evocative of a Starbucks than a sushi joint.The fish is more traditional.Sushi restaurants in Colorado Springs (and places I’ve visited all over) have turned away from the subtle to crafting increasingly gaudy rolls so packed with stuff that they are often too big to easily eat: Four kinds of fish, deep fried, with eel sauce, mayonnaise, wrapped inside out, with fish roe, wasabi, more mayonnaise, avocado, cream cheese, hot sauce, just a touch more mayonnaise, and a local sports name, such as “The Elway” or “The Avalanche Roll.”This Briargate sushi place plays the game too, to an extent. It offers a Pikes Peak Roll, a Garden of the Gods Roll, and an Incline Roll (yes, it has its own roll now). But it is only a small part of a long fish menu, and even the most baroque rolls have a simple elegance and — more importantly — remain small enough to eat in one bite.The Incline Roll ($9.50) is a spectacle on the plate — a colorful whirl of crunchy and spicy crab meat piled with blocks of sweet, cooked egg and spicy tuna.The real stars here are the nigiri sushi pieces. They are all fresh, delicious, and perfectly crafted. Their pedestals of vinegar-laced rice are slender. The fish on top has a long tail hanging off the back of the rice like some kind of sushi mullet. Standards like salmon ($4.25) and blue-fin tuna ($4.50) showed off the fresh, sweet, richness that can only come from the freshest fish. Specials like halibut ($4.25) and sea bass ($4.25) kept things interesting with subtly different textures and flavors. Sweet shrimp ($6) came in the traditional fashion: the sweet, soft bodies laid out on cots of rice, the big, heads deep fried and served with wiry feelers, beady eyes and all.“They are the best part, so crunchy!” our server told me.The hot menu is generally just as good. A delicious spicy miso soup came bobbing with mushrooms, onion, tofu and broccoli. Tempura soared above the standard versions with thin, crispy batter that was not the least bit greasy, and shrimp and fish not cooked until tough. Grilled meats are the weak point. The chicken teriyaki ($10.50 at lunch) pairs moist, tender breast meat with a classic sweet-and-savory sauce, but the restaurant lacks a grill to lend that delicious veneer of carbonized crunch to the surface of the meat.The service was great. Even on a slammed weekend evening, servers were attentive, friendly, and even brought some sliced avocado (no charge) for a 6-month-old diner among us.My only gripe was with the crab. On the nigiri menu, diners have the choice of ordering crab ($6.50) or “krab” (a highly-processed and fairly tasty mix of white fish, sugar, color and natural and artificial crab flavorings, $3.50). On the roll menu, though, several rolls claim to include crab when they really are stuffed with “krab.” Since it is cheaper and less delicately flavored, I see no problem in using it in rolls that diners are only going to drown in wasabi anyway, but Bara should always be clear. Otherwise, they are just stealing tricks from bad sushi menus, instead of good ones.
BARA SUSHI AND GRILL4 out of 5 stars(Superlative fish)Address: Promenade Shops at Briargate, 1645 Briargate Parkway, Suite 245Phone: 599-7330Hours: Lunch 11 a.m.-3:30 p.m. daily, dinner 3:30 p.m.-9 p.m., Mondays-Thursdays; 3:30 p.m.-10 p.m., Fridays and Saturdays; 3:30 p.m.-9 p.m. SundaysEntrees: $8-$18Vegetarian: PlentyAlcohol: Beer, wine and sakeCredit cards: Yes
Sweet shrimp appetizer right,, Spicy Salsa Tataki,left and Sunlight roll from the Bara Sushi Grill located at the Shops at Briargate. CAROL LAWRENCE,THE GAZETTE 12/01/09 Photo by CAROL LAWRENCE,THE GAZETTE
Spicy salad tatake at Bara Sushi Grill, 1645 Briargate Parkway in the Promenade Shops. KEVIN KRECK, THE GAZETTE Photo by KEVIN KRECK, THE GAZETTE
Sweet shrimp appetizer in front, Spicy Salsa Tataki, left, and Sunlight roll from the Bara Sushi Grill located at the Shops at Briargate. CAROL LAWRENCE,THE GAZETTE 12/01/09 Photo by CAROL LAWRENCE,THE GAZETTE